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[Komnata Chista] Europe 2009 - Saturday 2 May, Part II
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[Komnata Chista] Europe 2009 - Saturday 2 May, Part II
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cj7blog.blogspot.com - On 2 May I found myself having lunch at the Starobrno Brewery restaurant with my hosts and tour guides, Libor and Edita in Brno, Czech Republic. Libor and I had just toured the historic city center and Å pilberk Castle. Edita met us for lunch then the three of us set off for the small town of TÅ™ebÃÄ, an unpronounceable word for those who don’t speak Czech natively, but sounds to my uninitiated ears something like, “Chebich”.
TÅ™ebÃÄ, which dates from before the 1100’s, is the site of one of the few surviving historical Jewish neighborhoods in Europe. It was the Jewish quarter that we toured that day. It was a peaceful, cobblestoned area of 123 very small old houses, each a different style and design, nestled next to the Jihlava River. The builders were clever in creative use of very small spaces, tacking on balconies and using buttresses over passageways to support the structures. Somehow the houses all fit together to create a wonderfully charming atmosphere.
The afternoon light was golden, which made for great photographs:
Edita next to a sculpture scratched into a wall:
Stray Jewish Cat:
Dog Tug:
Two Windows:
Exposed Brick:
and
The first historical records of a Jewish group living in this area was in 1338. To make a living, they were allowed only to engage only in tannery, the making of spirits, glovemaking, pawn-shopping, and real estate. Even then they were heavily taxed, much more so than the Christian population. After generations of ups and downs, including fires, floods and persecution, the Jews acquired full rights in 1848 and began to move into the other areas of TÅ™ebÃÄ and points beyond.
At that point Christians began to move into the neighborhood, and the ghetto became a working quarter. Unfortunately, in WWII the Nazis took 281 Jews from the quarter and sent them to concentrations camps. Only 10 of these survived the war; the once active quarter was now only a silent reminder of the history of the once-thriving Jewish population. Fortunately this ghetto has been added to the UNESCO list of preserved historic places and therefore I could experience and photograph it for myself. There is a very good web site with virtual tours of the sites at http://trebic.cz/unesco/default.asp?lang_id=2.
We visited the two synagogues, the first of which, known as the “Old” synagogue, is now used as a Hussite church. I shot my “Peaceful Coexistence” photo there:
The attendant of this church was an old man who talked so much it was hard to experience the space. He talked to me endlessly in Czech (it could have been heavily accented English, but I couldn’t understand him!). He insisted I get a picture of him holding the “before” picture of the inside, which was a totally unreadable Xerox copy of a photo:
I also got a picture of him at the antique organ that they still use for services:
The second place of worship in the ghetto, known as the “Rear” Synagogue, is now an exhibit hall, and it was fully renovated in the 1990’s. There is a gift shop and information center at the front entrance and a preserved worship hall (now used for concerts and the like) behind that. I shot these photos there:
TÅ™ebÃÄ Menorah:
Above the worship hall is an exhibit space, formerly the women’s gallery, containing a permanent exhibit of artifacts from Jewish life throughout the ages. In addition, there is a scale model of the quarter enclosed in glass with small signs corresponding to buttons you can push for information on the item. This type of display, which I’ve seen in several other places, presents the information in several different languages. Pretty clever!
After touring the patchwork architecture, we drove up and over the hillside to the Jewish cemetery, the largest existing one in Europe: about 12,000 square yards and 3,000 tombstones surrounded by a massive stone wall. There is a newer part, with shiny monuments and well-kept flowers:
But I was more fascinated by the old part, with headstones dating from the early 1600’s surrounded by ground-cover ivy and wildflowers:
After this wonderful walking tour, we stopped for ice cream and espresso at a small café at the entrance to the Jewish quarter. There I was served my espresso in beautiful, stylish china by Julius Meinl of Austria. Not that I knew anything about Meinl until I saw his name on the dishes and looked it up - I only knew I loved the design. Check out http://meinl.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MC&Product_Code=78188 if you’re interested.
Mostly I love the fact that you can spend an afternoon walking peacefully around a truly old European neighborhood rich in history and top it off sipping espresso in an ultra-modern demitasse!
TÅ™ebÃÄ also has a historic town tower that was established in the early 1300’s, as well as the Basilica of St. Prokopius, which has been described as a jewel of European medieval architecture. Though we didn’t get to tour these things, they are on my list of things to do the next time I’m in the neighborhood!
It was getting late, so we made our way back to the car and drove back to Edita’s parents’ house in OkÅ™ÃÅ¡ky. True to European form, Libor had told them I’d lost all my pictures of the cookout on Friday night, so they had another one for me this night! In addition to Edita’s parents, the party consisted of her and Libor’s kids, her brother Robert, his 8-year-old son Matyus (who was extremely shy and scared of the American but who warmed to me later though he couldn’t understand anything I said to him), her other brother Marcel, and Marcel’s wife Vera.
Robert and Libor try to get me to drink Slivovice:
Robert, Libor, Edita, and son:
Robert at the grill:
Marcel told us something very interesting to me. You may remember, several journals ago, that I discovered my new favorite Czech film, Closely Watched Trains. The actor who played the lead in that film, Václav Neckár, was actually a singer by trade, and has had a fairly successful music career since the film was made in 1966. Turns out he lives nearby and made an appearance at the May Day festival that was held the night before in that very village!
Well, it was really, really cold, I had a cold, and I was wiped out after my adventures in Moravia. So I bid the family good night and retreated to the warm, comfy bed upstairs in the other half of the duplex. I fell asleep as the bright moonlight streamed through the window and I could hear the muffled sounds of the family outside, talking, laughing and singing into the night.
Stay tuned for a family outing to Telc!
source : http://tempo.co, http://instagram.com
